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MUSHROOMS. 



GUIDE TO MUSHROOM CULTURE 

(Fifth Edition.) 



...ISSUED BY... 

Pure Culture Spawn Company. 

PACIFIC, MISSOURI. 



COPYRIGHT ie08, BY 

PURE CULTURE SPAWN COMPANY. 



LIBK ARY of 0ONi5Ht«S 
I wo CODles Hec»- 

AUG t22 li»08 

COPt 8. 



^^^^'^ 



"It is safe to say that al- 
though mushroom production has 
doubled in the United States 
vfithin a period of five years, 
the market could take twice the 
quantity now being received 
without materially affecting the 

value of the product 

the price at present paid for 
fresh mushrooms makes it a pay- 
ing business when the conditions 
are favorable and when good 
care and the best cultural intel- 
ligence are brought to bear on 
the work/' —Cyclopedia of Amer- 
ican Agriculture, Vol. II. 



INTRODUCTORY. 

Realizing the need of more explicit directions for 
the cultivation of mushrooms — a full discussion of every 
phase of the work in detail — we have enlarged this, 
the fifth edition of our "Guide to Mushroom Culture" 
to such an extent as to make it advisable to publish the 
two parts "Pure Culture Spawn" and "Guide to Mush- 
room Culture" separately. Each step in the work of 
mushroom growing is taken up in minute detail, and is 
treated in the light of recent methods, — methods which 
have made it necessary for the grower of yesterday 
either to revise his methods or step aside and let 
science take the lead. 

Bulletins On Mushroom Culture. 

Up to the time mushroom investigations by the 
United States Department of Agriculture were discon- 
tinued the various bulletins on mushroom growing 
issued by said Department of Agriculture and by 
several State Experiment Stations composed the most 
complete and authentic guide availaole to the grower. 
These publications' have been the most important factor 
in ehminating the haphazard methods manifest in 
mushroom grov ing only a few years ago. Although 
the past two years have witnessed more rapid progress 
than proceeding years no systematic treatise, setting 
forth recent developments, has appeared since the 
publication of B. P. I. Bulletin No. 85, ''The Principles 
of Mushroom Growing" etc., in 1905. 

"The Mushroom." 

Generally speaking, the term ''mushroom" may 
designate any one of the numerous species of fleshy 
fungi, while speaking in a commercial sense,^ "the 
mushroom" refers only to the several species of 
Agaricaceae {A. campestris, arvensis, fabaceus, and vil- 
laticus) now under cultivation. The layman groups all 
fleshy fungi into two classes: "mushrooms' [ and "toad- 
stools. ' ' We readily see that such a division is not 
sustained when varieties last year grouped in the 
""' toadstool" class are now recognized as edible mush- 
rooms. The terms are used interchangably and should 
be synonymous. 



6 

Selecting A Place To Grow Mushrooms. 

The Pure Culture Method has made possible the 
introduction of varieties of mushrooms adapted to 
different temperatures, thus making it possible now to 
grow mushrooms under a much wider range of con- 
ditions than heretofore. The essential condition and 
determining factor in selecting a place to grow mush- 
rooms is a moderate, even temperature, where extremes 
can be avoided. Cellars, caves and mines are of the 
first importance, since here the temperature varies 
very little, and mushrooms may be grown the year 
round. 

The Residence Cellar For the Home Grower. 
For growing a home supply, and to one beginning to 
grow mushrooms for the market, there is no better 
place than the residence cellar or basement. By pre- 
paring the compost at the stable and transferring it to 
the cellar after it has been carried through the early 
stages of fermentation, no unpleasant odor will be 
brought into the cellar. Nine-tenths of the mushrooms 
grown for home use are produced on cellar beds — beds 
made directly on the floor, in boxes, or on tables and 
shelves. 

Cellars, Caves, Mines, Etc. Large cellars, (aban- 
doned breweries, packing houses and wine cellars) 
caves, basements, tunnels and mines are unexcelled for 
commercial mushroom growing. In such places the 
temperature is usually very favorable for the culture of 
mushrooms throughout the entire year, thus not only 
eliminating the cost of heating (which is a factor to be 
taken into account when growing mushrooms in build- 
ings above ground) but making it possible for the 
grower to supply his trade with the same variety right 
along, summer and winter. In caves and mines it is 
important to avoid all possible danger of flooding by 
seepage or high water. Usually the ventilation in such 
places is quite sufficient. Draughts must be avoided. 

Mushroom Culture In Houses, Barns, Stalls and 
Sheds is, next to cellar culture, the most common 
method. Some of the largest mushroom establishments 
in this country consist altogether of specially built 
mushroom houses almost entirely above ground. Such 



houses are constructed with double walls and roof, re- 
sembling in this respect an ice house. Better insula- 
tion is obtained by using builders' felt between the 
walls. The roof is usually covered with a rubber or 
felt roofing material (see Fig. 1). The extent of mush- 




One of the mushroom houses on Epicure Farm, Portland, Me., 
built of 2x4s, boarded with inch boards. Roof and sides are cov- 
ered with paroid roofing. Sides are banked with dirt. House 20 ft. 
wide and side walls are 2 ft. high, heated with hot water system. 

room culture in houses, greenhouses, etc., has been 
greatly augmented by the introduction of warm 
weather species which have made it possible even 
under such conditions to grow mushrooms throughout 
the summer months. A heating system similar to that 
employed in greenhouses is used to control the temper- 
ature in winter. The space under greenhouse benches 
may be used very profitably for growing mushrooms.* 

Ventilators And Windows. 

The ventilators in cellars, basements and mish- 
room houses should be placed in or near the roof, and 
should be so constructed as to prevent mtense rays of 
light from falling on the mushroom bed. Diffuse light 

* Authority: Nineteenth annual report of the Massachusetts 
Agricultural Experiment Station, page 211, 



is not injurious but, like other fungi, the growth of the 
mushroom is retarded by intense Hght. Darken the 
windows with curtains. Absolute darkness, though 
not essential, is preferable, because it prevents the 
occurrence of flies and other insects frequently found 
in the mushroom house. If the outside temperature is 
such that the ventilators can not remain open continu- 
ally they should be opened at least an hour or two 
daily. A wire screen over the ventilators will prevent 
flies and insects from entering the mushroom house. 

An Economic Arrangement Of Beds. 

The experienced grower will so divide his space 
that he may put in beds at intervals of about three 
months throughout the year, thus keeping some portion 
of the house always in bearing. Additional advantages 
of such a plan over that where the entire area is bed- 
ded at once are that it requires fewer employes and 
permits a more thorough and careful preparation of the 
materials. A small number of employees continuously 
engaged in the work attain greater efficiency and per- 
form better service than a larger number employed only 
a few weeks or months. 

Open Air Culture. 

Causes of Failure. The culture of mushrooms in 
the open has received little attention in this country 
and, even today, the record of successes attained out of 
doors is so overwhelmingly outnumbered by the many 
failures that the idea is generally accepted that mush- 
rooms cannot be grown successfully in the open. 
These failures may be attributed to several causes: 
(1) A lack of information concerning the relationship 
existing between the minute organisms (bacteria) of 
the compost and the spawn. With a better understand- 
ing oiv the causes of fermentation of manure and of the 
conditions which govern the rapidity of fermentation, 
we realize, as never before, that there is a distinct 
relation between the activity of the minute organisms 
which bring about the decomposition of the manure, and 
the development of the spawn. Under the ordinary 
methods of culture in cellars and houses, where the 
grower has absolute control of the temperature and 



moisture, the activity of these organisms can be so 
regulated as to bring about the most favorable con- 
dition for the developmeat of the spawn. In the open 
we can control conditions only to a limited extent; 
consequently the same methods of culture will not 
apply. Growers formerly failed to recognize this dis- 
tinction. (2) The use of spawn poorly adapted to the 
conditions and environment. Prior to the development 
of special strains of mushrooms, made possible only 
since the introduction of Pure Culture Spawn, 
A. campestris was practically the only species culti- 
vated. The temperature range of this mushroom (52° 
to 63° F) limits its culture in the open to a few months 
during the spring and fall. Under the most favorable 
conditions spawn, planted in early spring, may survive 
the summer months and produce a few mushrooms be- 
fore the winter begins. With the hardier strains 
(A. arvensis) now available to the grower, even though 
we had not improved the culture conditions, the mar- 
gin between the number of successes and the number 
of failures should be reduced very materially. (3) The 
use of worthless spawn. It is suggested and recom- 
mended, even today, by some dealers and spawn mak- 
ers that old spawn—because it may be obtained at a 
reduced price — can be used more economically in open 
air culture than good, fresh spawn. This is untrue 
and is very misleading. Successful results cannot be 
obtained except with the best fresh spawn, and poor 
seed should never be used no matter what the price. 
Why should you plant spawn in a bed out of doors that 
is not fit to use in your mushroom house? 

Time Of Planting Out-Door Beds. 

Mushroom culture in the open in the United States, 
with the exception of a portion of the Pacific coast 
country, is limited to certain seasons of the year. In 
the southern section, south of San Antonio, Vicksburg, 
and Atlanta, out-door plantings should he made in 
October and November. Such beds v^ill bear from 
about Christmas until very warm weather sets in. In 
the Central and South Central States plantings in the 
open should be made as early in spring as weather 
conditions permit— say from the first of March till the 



10 

middle of April Along the Pacific Coast, from Eureka 
to Los Angeles, CaL, open air culture (so far as tem- 
perature is concerned) is practicable the entire year. 
This, together Y/ith the unusual demand for fresh 
mushrooms, particularly during the tourist's season, 
makes southern California one of the most promising 
mushroom centers in the United States. While actual 
figures, showing the development of the mushroom 
industry in this section, are not available, conservative 
estimates place the yield of the present season at four 
times that of two years ago. 

Temperature And Moisture. 

Influence On The Microscopic Flora Of The 
Compost. Fermentation of the manure is due to the 
action of minute organisms and, as stated in a previous 
paragraph, a definite relation exists between the de- 
veloping spawn and this microscopic plant life ever 
present in the compost. The activity of these organisms 
is influenced by the degree of temperature and moisture, 
consequently these factors play an important role in 
mushroom growing. While they may have much in 
common, this relationship between the microscopic flora 
of the mushroom bed and mushroom spawn, as now 
understood, is not mutual; and, except in so far as the 
food constitutents are rendered more readily soluble 
by the process of decomposition, we may assume that 
there is an incessant state of competion going on within 
the mushroom bed. Temperature and moisture are the 
agencies through which we control bacterial activity, 
and a proper moisture and tern]: era ture condition in 
mushroom growing implies that average mean which 
enables the growing spawn to overcome the retarding 
influence of these organisms. The introduction and 
development of species of mushrooms adapted to 
different temperatures clearly indicates that this mean 
is not constant, but that it varies with different strains 
of mushrooms. 

Optimum Temperature For Different Species. In 
the light of these facts we may account for the rela- 
tively slow growth of mushroom spawn on un fermented 
manure and in high temperatures. The temperature, 
moreover, may not be above that normally considered 



11 

as optimum. Unfermented manure, however, furnish- 
es a more favorable medium for bacteria development 
consequently the development of the spawn is retarded. 
In general it has been found that the optimum temper- 
ature for growing the different species of Agaricacede 
is approximately as follows: 

Agaricus campestris . . . 53° to 58° F. 

arvensis . . . 58° to 62° F. 

villaticus . . . 63° to 68° F. 

fabaceus . . . 75° to 85° F. 
Effect Of High And Low Temerature. The im- 
mediate effect of an unfavorably high temperature on 
the plant — the sporophore— is m^^nifest in a rapid 
elongation of the stem (stipe), sometimes accompanied 
by a corresponding decrease in the size of the cap, 
thus developing a mushroom very much out of the 
usual proportions. The effect of a temperature below 
the optimum manifests itself in the development of a 
very short, thick stem, large cap, and slow growth. 

Relation Between Moisture And Temperature. 
From the foregoing it v/ill be readily seen that the 
moisture and temperature conditions are closely related, 
and that a change of one modifies to a certain degree 
the influence of the other on growing spawn. In other 
words, a high temperature should be accompanied by a 
greater per cent of moisture than is present at a low 
temperature. The degree of moisture may vary in 
differen-t sections of the country and at difterent sea- 
sons, but in general about 55 per cent will be found 
satisfactory. This likewise varies with different 
species. The high temperature species require less 
moisture than A, campestris. The texture of the bed 
will also govern to a certain extent the degree of moist- 
ure most favorable for spawn growth. An open 
strawy material will require more moisture than a bed 
practically free from straw and litter. The most satis- 
factory test, and one the experienced grower may rely 
on in determining the moisture condition, consists in 
taking a handful of the compost and squeezing it very 
hard. With the proper degree of moisture a slight 
amount of water should ooze out between the fingers, 
but not sufficient to drip from the hand. (Watering the 



12 

beds is taken up in another chapter. ) 

Atmospheric Moisture In Tiie Mushroom House. 

A humid atmosphere is desirable in the mushroom 
house and is one of the prime essentials in successful 
mushroom growing. This does not mean that the 
place should be so damp as to be dripping with water, 
but, unless a fairly moist condition of the atmosphere 
prevails at all times, too rapid evaporation may occur. 
Ventilators of the mushroom house should be so regu- 
lated as to insure a slight but constant evaporation from 
the surface of the beds. An intermittent^ dry and 
moist atmospheric condition will shorten the life (fruit- 
ing period) of a bed and very materially injure the 
quality of the product. The effect of an extremely dry 
atmosphere manifests itself in the development of 
mushrooms of irregular form with caps cracked and 
torn. 

These facts taken into consideration, the grower 
will readily understand why cellars, basements, caves, 
etc., with a constant tem.perature and moisture con- 
dition, are of first importance in commercial mushroom 
growing, and that in the construction of a mushroom 
house these factors must ever be kept in view. 

Materials For Mushroom Beds. 

Among the various materials that have been tried 
in mushroom culture none have been found better than 
fresh stable manure, particularly . that from stables 
where the horses (or mules) are bedded with' straw. 
It's superiority is not due wholly to the content of 
plant food, but beds made thereof have a texture 
peculiarly adapted to the most vigorous development of 
the spawn. Beds made from this material invariably 
excel other beds in productiveness. On account of the 
greater expense of bedding animals with straw, as 
compared with sawdust and shavings, many stables 
now use these latter materials, and it is becoming more 
difficult each year to obtain straw manure. Beds made 
from shavings manure, properly fermented and treated 
with lime, produce excellent yields. Manure from 
stables in which timothy or prairie hay is used for 
bedding the animals should never be used for mush- 
room beds. Manure from animals fed on "ship stuff" 



13 

or other cheap rations, is unfit for mushroom growing 
and should be carefully avoided. It is also very im- 
portant that those stables in which the manure is 
treated with poisonous disinfectants, and particularly 
veterinary hospitals, be avoided when selecting mater- 
ial for the mushroom bed. 

Deep Stall Fermentation. Except when the 
manure has been left in the stall and is daily trampled 
upon by the animals it should not be used when more 
than ten days or two weeks old. When it remains in the 
stall and is tramped down by the animal, the manure is 
preserved in excellent condition for months. 

Decayed Leaves make an excellent substitute for 
stable manure in mushroom beds. It is necessary 
however to mix soil with the leaves, otherwise 
the bed will be of a very loose texture. Gather 
the leaves in late summer as they fall and are swept up 
on the street. If sufficiently moist when gathered into 
a pile, fermentation v/ill set in immediately. It is best to 
mix a little soil with the leaves at once that fermentation 
may be more gradual. When decomposed to such an 
extent that the blade may readily be broken from the 
ribs and veins the material is in good condition for 
making into beds. Mix one bushel of garden dirt with 
two bushels of leaves. Fertilization is essential in all 
cases to obtain maximum results. 

Preparing The Compost. 

Importance of Careful Fermentation. Recent re- 
sults have shown that the importance of proper 
fermentation of manure for mushroom beds has not been 
sufficiently emphasized in previous publications. It is a 
very important factor in determining the quality and 
quantity of the yield of a bed. The solid manure 
contains, principally, fertilizing constituents of the food 
which have not bean digested or absorbed inco the 
animal system and are therefore in insoluble form. By 
the process of fermentation this food is rendered more 
readily soluble. Liquid manure, on the other hand, 
contains those fertilizing constituents which have been 
digested and are readily available. This explains the 
stimulative effect observed after applying hquid manure 



14 

to old beds. It is analagous to the application of readily 
available food in the form of commercial fertilizers. 

Loss Of Plant Food By Leaching. Just as it is 
important to render the difficultly soluble food more 
readily soluble by fermentation, it is equally as 
important that the soluble food should be preserved, 
and every precaution should be taken to prevent a loss 
of food by leaching. The fermenting pile should not 
be exposed to drenching rains as this invariably re- 
sults in a rapid depletion of the essential food con- 
stituents of the compost, particularly the soluble miner- 
al elements. More uniform results are therefore 
obtained when the manure is fermented under shelter. 

In Commercial Mushroom Growing the manure is 
usually fermented in ricks about four feet deep, ten to 
twelve feet wide and as long as might be necessary or 
convenient. As the rick is being made the manure, if 
dry, should be well moistened throughout and tramped 
down. If piled loosely and not sufficiently moist, 
fermentation will take place so rapidly as to cause an 
injuriously high temperature, the immediate effect of 
which is manifest in "fire-fanging" and a strong 
ammonical smell. * 

The First Turning. By the end of the first day the 
manure pile will become quite warm within and a 
thermometer should be used to ascertain the exact 
temperature. Insert the thermometer 10 to 15 inches. 
After three or four days the temperature will have risen 
to near 130° F. and the entire mass should be forked over 
into a new rick. This is called the ''first turning^' 
When turning the manure pile all lumps should be 
shaken to pieces and the outer portion of the old rick 
should be in the interior of the new pile that all may 
ferment uniformly. Always pack the new rick when 
turning the manure pile. 

Second And Third Turning. The temperature 
of the new rick will begin to rise immediately, though 
not so rapidly as before. It may be necessary to spray 

* "Firetang^" is a white fungus growth induced by a very high 
temperature, and is usually first observed beveral inches under the 
surface of the manure pile. 



15 

the surface of the new rick about the third day to prevent 
''fire-fangi ng/' Turn the pile again when the tem- 
perature approaches the danger point (130° F.), usually 
between the fourth and sixth days. Generally a third 
turning is necessary about a week later, though some- 
times the compost is ready to be made into beds at this 
time. 

Condition For Making Into Beds. Before the 
compost is in prime condition for making into beds it 
should lose the stable odor and should have a sweet 
smell not unlike that of fresh mushrooms; the color 
will have become brown and it will appear greasy to 
the touch. The temperature should be between 115° 
and 100° F. 

Using Soil To Check Fermentation. Some grow- 
ers cover the compost pile with about three inches of 
soil, thus filling the pores of the mass and thereby 
checking fermentation and evaporation. Manure treat- 
ed in this manner ferments slowly but gradually, and 
the additional labor involved in applying the soil is 
offset by a saving of one or more ''turnings" required 
when the rick is not covered. Mixing soil with the 
manure will have the same effect on fermentation and 
evaporation. 

Extreme Temperature Injurious. Results obtained 
through experiments along this line indicate that from 
120° F. to 130° F. is the most favorable temperature for 
fermenting manure for mushroom beds, and that when 
the heat of fermentation exceeds this limit the quality 
of the material is impaired. The injury is partly due 
to a loss of nitrogen perhaps, but more particularly to a 
transformation of the mineral ^ food constituents into 
compounds which cannot be assimilated by the spawn. 
This transformation probably consists in a breaking 
down of the more complex compounds into simpler 
forms— a direct effect of the fungus growth referred to 
as ''fire-fangs.'' 

Water And Fermentation. Particular attention 
should be given at all times to the amount of moisture 
in the manure. It is a very effective means of controlling 



16 

fermentation. The addition of water reduces the 
temperature and thus retards fermentation. Also, by 
fining up the pores of the mass thus excluding the air, 
it checks fermentation within the pile. ' Tire-f anging' ' 
can be checked to a great extent by regular sprayings. 
Under the most favorable moisture condition a slight 
amount of water will drip from a handful of the material 
when tightly pressed between the fingers. 

Fermentation More Rapid In Summer. On ac- 
count of the more favorable climatic conditions for 
bacterial development, manure ferments more rapidly 
in summer than in late fall and winter. Growers should 
therefore exercise the greatest care in the selection and 
preparation of the compost at this season. Where 
manure is received in car lots a delay of only a few days 
in transit may result in serious injury to the compost, 
due to "fire-f anging. " 

Growth Of Wild Mushrooms On Manure. Except 
in cold weather, the compost pile, during the last 
stages of fermentation, will produce an abundant crop 
of wild mushrooms— a small species of Coprinus. This 
may continue to grow on the compost during the first 
few days after the bed is made up. The appearance of 
this fungus, although it often worries the amateur, is 
no cause for alarm, and the experienced grov/er takes 
this as a sign that the compost is approaching the stage 
favorable for the growth of "the mushroom." 

Preparing A Small Mass Of Compost. The home 
grower and beginner v/ho uses but a small quantity of 
compost will experience conditions difi'erent from those 
confronting the large commercial grower. In a small 
pile a greater proportion of the mass is exposed; more 
moisture escapes by evaporation; and fermentation be- 
comes very active. Close attention must be given to 
the moisture condition, and the mass must be turned at 
shorter intervals (every second or third day) to prevent 
"fire-f anging. " Covering a small pile with moist sack- 
ing or old matting is very beneficial. Some growers 
mix soil with the compost to check fermentation and to 
prevent too rapid evaporation. • 

* One part of good garden soil should be used with tive parts 
of manure. 



17 

Less time is required in the preparation of a small 
pile than when the manure is handled in large ricks. 
It should not be inferred, however, that a small mass, 
consisting only of several wheel-barrow loads of manure, 
can be properly fermented. It would be very difficult 
to control conditions favorable for fermentation in a 
mass less than one cubic yard, and it is largely for this 
reason that many beginners who daily collect the drop- 
pings from one or two animals, fail in their attempts 
to grow mushrooms. Where the grower is dependent 
on the material from one or two animals, the animal 
should be bedded in such a manner that the manure 
may be left in the stall until a sufficient amount has 
accumulated. Such manure is preserved in excellent 
condition when daily trampled on by the animal, * and 
will invariably yield better results than manure that 
has gradually accumulated and has been piled else- 
where. 

Fertilization In Mushroom Culture. 

It is only within the past two years that com- 
mercial fertilizers have been successfully used in mush- 
room culture, consequently the present chapter does 
not by any means represent a final treatise on this 
question. Our aim is to acquaint the reader with the 
principles governing the use of commercial fertilizers 
on mushroom beds, the methods that have been 
successfully applied, and to suggest further investigation 
and experiments. 

Principle Of Plant Nutrition. It is a fundamental 
principle of plant nutrition that every plant absolutely 
requires a certain minimum of the essential food elements 
and that in the absence of this minimum of any 
one nutrient element it cannot attain its normal 
development. This principle applied to mushroom 
culture means that the yield of a mushroom bed is 
determined by the minimum quantity of any one of the 
essential food constituents. That is, even though there 
be present in the mushroom bed an abundance of one or 
more food coastituents in readily available form, if there 
is a deficiency of any one food constituent, the yield of 

* Authority: Farmers' Bulletin No. 192, p. 24, U. S. Dept, of 
Agriculture. 



18 

such a bed will be determined by the deficient 

element. * 

Stable Manure has been generally regarded by the 
mushroom grower as a medium supplying all the food 
necessary for the growth of the mushroom. While this 
is quite true, recent investigations reveal the fact that 
the commercial culture of mushrooms on manure alone 
is not the most economical method. Through extensive 
nutrition experiments in the laboratory as well as 
thorough tests on beds to which the essential elements 
were applied in different proportions, it has been 
demonstrated that the nutrients as supplied by manure 
alone are an ' 'unbalanced food. ' ' 

Analyses Of Stable Manure shows that it con- 
tains approximately 0.49 per cent Nitrogen, 0.26 per 
rent Phosphoric acid and 0.48 per cent Potash. This 
represents the amount of these elements actually present, 
as indicated by the chemist's analysis when manure is 
fermented under the mo'st favorable conditions, and 
should not be taken as indicating the per cent of available 
food. Under the usual method of fermentation it is 
probable that less than one-third of the mineral foods 
present become available during the average life of the 
mushroom bed. All food must first pass into solution 
before it can be taken up by the plant. 

The Mushroom Is A Heavy Feeder and to obtain 
the best quality and largest yields, large quantities of 
available food are absolutely essential. It is moreover 
an artificial crop and the grower has complete control of 
all conditions affecting growth. We should therefore 
obtain a more liberal response to proper feeding with 
commercial fertilizers than that obtained from other 
crops, all of which are to a great extent dependent 
upon climatic conditions over which the grower has no 
control. The profit from the use of fertilizers is 
measured to a large degree by the perfection of soil 
conditions, and it is only in the absence of unfavorable 

* Illustration: If we have sufficient nitrogen and potash pre- 
sent in a mushroom bed to produce two pounds of mushrooms 
per sq. foot of surface, but only sufficient phosphoric acid to pro- 
duce one-half pound per sq.foot, the yield from such a bed will be 
determined by the amount of phosphoric acid available and cannot 
exceed one-half pound per sq. foot of bed. 



19 
influences that the transformation of a maximum 
amount of plant food into plant substance can take 
place. More than this, the mushroom is a crop of very 
high commercial value, and for this reason will stand 
for the use of fertilizers which may be too expensive 
for other crops having a lower market value. 

Mineral Foods Most important. It is a well 
known fact among those familiar with the use of fertil- 
izers and requirements of different kinds of soils that 
the heavy soils, rich in humus, are generally lacking in 
phosphates and potash. We would naturally expect in 
mushroom beds, consisting v/holly of humus making 
materials, to find this condition manifest in an extreme 
degree. Results thus far obtained by fertilization 
show the mineral foods to be of greatest importance. 
The available nitrogen present in manure seems to be 
more than adequate for the largest yields that have 
ever been obtained, and it is by increasing the supply 
of calcium, potash and available phosphoric acid that 
any increase in yield can be effected. The spurts of 
renewed growth occasionally reported after the ad- 
dition of saltpetre to a mushroom bed are perhaps not so 
much due to the nitrogen as to the action of the alkali 
in correcting the acidity of the compost. 

Present Method Of Fertilization. The work along 
this line has thus far consisted merely in supplement- 
ing with commercial fertilizers the food originally 
present in the compost in such a manner ^ as to obtain 
maximum results from the available nitrogen. This 
has been accomplished by adding phosphates and 
potash, in the form of acid phosphate and potassium 
sulphate, to make up the deficiency of these nutrients; 
also by adding slaked lime, thereby iiastening the de- 
composition of the manure, and thus increasing the 
solubility of the food already present. 

In the light of present knowledge of fertilization 
of mushroom beds, the following formulae are recom- 
mended: 

Formula No. 1. — Apply one-third of a pound of 
slaked lime to every sq. foot of bed (33 pounds per 
100 sq.ft.). Thoroughly mix the lime with the 
manure when bed is being made up. 



20 

Lime can readily be obtained anywhere, hence we 
recommend this method particularly to the home 
grower. If more convenient to obtain unleached wood 
ashes use ashes instead of lime, applying same at the 
rate of one-half pound per sq. foot of bed (50 pounds 
per 100 sq. ft. ) . Thoroughly mix the ashes with the 
manure when the latter receives the last turning. It is 
not necessary to screen the ashes for this purpose. 

The use of lime or wood ashes as here suggested 
increases the yield of a bed approximately 100 per cent. 

Formula No. 2. — Apply to 100 sq. feet of beds: 
18 pounds slaked lime. 

12 ' ' acid phosphate, 14 to 16 per cent available. 
5 ' ' sulphate of potash, 48 to 52 per cent 

Apply the potash when the manure receives the 
first or second turning, but do not apply lime until 
bed. is being made up. Thoroughly mix the fertilizer 
with the manure by first scattering it evenly over the 
surface and then forking over the entire mass. 

Unless the area of beds is such that the grower 
would require sufficient quantities of phosphate and 
potash to purchase same in original bags of 225 pounds 
and 100 pounds respectively, it is recommended that he 
use formula No. 1 — lime alone. Beds fertihzed accord- 
ing to formula No. 2 continue bearing longer than beds 
treated with lime alone. 

The price of phosphate and potash in the above 
forms is approximately 75 cents and $2.25 per one 
hundred pounds, respectively. 

Lime is absolutely essential to successful mush- 
room culture. Aside from any manurial action that 
may be attributed to lime it is of paramount import- 
ance as a ''sweetener,'' and as an aid to decomposition, 
thus rendering the food constituents in the manure 
more readily soluble. Most manures are slightly acid 
after fermentation, and, unless this acid condition is 
neutralized by the addition of lime, the development of 
the spawn is retarded. It is probable that lime enters 
into certain chemical compounds to take the place of 
potash and phosphoric acid, thus liberating these 
elements and rendering them immediately available to 
the plant. Lime also serves the purpose of an insecti- 
cide. 



21 
The Advantages Of Fertilization in mushroom 
culture are: 

(1) Earlier yields. 

(2) Increased productiveness. 

(3) Long life of beds. 

(4) Better quality of product. 

(5) Greater uniformity of product. 

(6) Prevention of insects. 

Mushroom Beds. 

Two Types. Mushroom beds are usually made ac- 
cording to one of two general types, called flat or ridge 
beds (sometimes referred to as English and French 
types respectively). The former, being more easily 
constructed, is gaining favor among the American 
growers and the latter is used only in out-door work 




Fig. 2. 
and in very moist places— such as wet caves, mines, 
etc. The moisture condition, in fact, is the determin- 
ing factor when deciding upon the type of bed best 
adapted to the conditions. There being a greater 
amount of surface per given mass in ridge beds than 
in flat beds, it necessarily follows that under identical 
conditions of moisture more moisture will be evaporated 
from the ridge type than from the flat type of bed. 



22 

On account of the greater surface area of the ridge bed 
many growers naturally think this type of bed more 
remunerative than the flat bed. This conclusion how- 
ever is contrary to actual experience, for the additional 
expense (labor) involved in constructing ridge beds 
above that of making flat beds more than offsets any 
increased returns due to greater surface area. 

The Flat Bed (Fig. 2) should be about ten inches 
deep (if less than 100 sq. feet in area a depth of 12 
inches is desirable). The house or cellar will determine 
its size and shape. Paths or walks should be so arrang- 
ed that the crop can be gathered without stepping on 
the beds. Instead of leaving paths between the beds, 
some growers utilize the entire floor space for beds and 
place elevated walks over same at convenient intervals. 
In making up the beds it is not essential that the man- 
ure be put down and firmed by layers as is maintained 
by some writers. Having mixed in the fertilizer the 
entire mass may be shaped up and compressed at once. 

Ridge Beds for indoor culture should be about two 
feet wide at base, 18 inches in depth, and tapering 
sufficiently to hold the casing in place. A convenient 
arrangement is to have two beds in close contact and 
then a walk ten inches wide, between these and the 
next two. A slanting bed is usually made up next to 
the wall. On account of the greater depth of ridge 
beds it is necessary to make them up in layers, thorough- 
ly compressing each successive layer of compost as it is 
put down. 

Beds Must Be Packed Firm. It is absolutely es- 
sential in both types of beds that the compost be packed 
very firm as soon as made up, otherwise violent fer- 
mentation may occur and greatly injure the compost. 
Even though fermentation has proceeded to a stage 
where there is no danger of further heating, the rapid 
loss of water from open spongy beds is detrimental. 
The beginner is more likely not to pack the bed firm 
enough than to get it too firm. A convenient tamper 
can be made of a block of wood 12x18 inches, six 
inches in thickness, with a vertical handle similar to 
tampers used in laying cement pavement. 

The Moisture condition of the manure when being 
made up into beds is of very great importance. There 



23 

should be sufficient moisture that upon squeezing a 
handful very hard only a few drops of water ooze out 
between the fingers. 

Methods Of Out-Door Culture. 

There are several methods of propagating mush- 
rooms in the open. The grower who wishes merely to 
increase the natural growth of mushrooms on his lawn 
or meadow, and has little time to devote to the work, 
will seed his plot without giving same much prepara- 
tion. In order not to mar the appearance of the lawn 
it is necessary to insert the pieces of spawn without 
the addition of compost. In such cases it is very 
essential that the lawn be given a dressing of manure 
either shortly before the spawn is planted or immedi- 
ately after. Whenever possible, however, it is desir- 
able to insert a small mass (say a mass twice the size 
of a spawn brick) of prepared stable manure with the 
spawn when planting. In planting, merely lift the ' 
sod with a spade and insert the spawn at a depth of 
1 1-2 to 2 inches. 

Another method employed by market gardeners is 
to insert the spawn in the compost applied in beds for 
forcing rhubarb and asparagus. 

The pieces of spawn used in seeding a plot in the 
lawn or meadow should be^larger than is recommended 
for in-door beds. Break the brick into about six pieces 
only. A degree of moisture favorable for the germina- 
tion of seeds is most satisfactory for the developing 
spawn. The regularity of the season (rainfall) will 
determine, to a great extent, the yield of mushrooms 
when propagated in this manner. 

The most common method, however of growing 
mushrooms out of doors is in open beds or in cold- 
frames. For this method the material used and its 
preparation is the same as for beds indoors. In order 
to modify bacterial activity within the compost and to 
check evaporation, soil should be mixed with the com- 
post for out-door beds. Use one- third soil and two- 
thirds manure. 

Ridge Beds Preferable. For open beds the ridge 
type is preferable because it will readily shed water in 
case of heavy rains. Such beds should be about 2 1-2 
feet in width and 1 1-2 to 2 feet deep. The beds are 



24 

made up in the same way as indoor beds. Fertilizer 

should also be applied as is recommended for indoor 

culture. 

Flat Beds. Beds enclosed as hot beds or cold- 
frames are usually flat. A mixture of soil and manure 
is desirable, as recommended for ridge beds in the open. 
Such beds should be about 14 inches deep and covered 
with straw. Use fertilizer as recommended in another 
chapter. 

Mulching Out-Door Beds. As soon as the beds 
have been made up they should be covered with 4 or 5 
inches of straw to prevent too rapid loss of moisture or 
sudden changes of temperature. Spawn the beds as 
usual, replacing the straw covering after spawning. 
After the spawn has begun spreading throughout the 
bed and begins to show in mould-like spots on the sur- 
face (under the straw), the soil casing should be 
applied. This casing should be one to one and a half 
inches in depth. Replace the straw covering again and 
leave it on the beds continually, removing it only while 
watering the beds and picking the crop. 

An Insect Preventive. In view of the fact that 
mulching in-door beds with tobacco stems is a prevent- 
ive of numerous insects it is highly probable that in- 
jurious insects can be prevented on out-door beds by 
treating the straw covering with an effective insecti- 
cide, or, even by merely mixing a considerable portion 
of tobacco stems with the straw mulch. The treat- 
ment with an insecticide would necessarily have to be 
repeated at intervals, especially after rains. It is also 
very important that the insecticide be non-injurious to 
the spawn. 

Selecting A Place For Out-Door Beds. In select- 
ing a place for out-door beds avoid low seepy areas. 
Since out-door culture is practicable throughout the 
central and northern states only between March and 
'^^tober it is desirable to select the coolest place avail- 
able for the bed. See page 9 for time when beds in 
the open should be planted in different sections of the 
United States. 

Planting Or Spawning. 
It is rarely ever advisable to seed a bed as soon as 



25 
it is made up. So long as manure is not thoroughly 
decomposed, although there is slight evidence of 
bacterial activity while it remains undisturbed, it almost 
invariably heats again when the mass is turned into a 
new pile. It may become so hot that another turning 
is necessary to prevent ' *fire-f anging" after the bed is 
made up, though this does not happen often. The tem- 
perature may however rise sufficiently to injure the 
spawn. It is therefore recommended that the bed be 
left alone three to six days after it is made up, before 
planting the spawn. Should fermentation set in anew 
the temperature will begin to drop about the fourth 
day, and the spawn may be inserted as soon as it falls 
to 70° or 75° F. When a bed is seeded at a tempera- 
ture above 80° F. the vitality is likely to be impaired. 

Cold Beds. Not infrequently the temperature of 
the bed does not rise as here indicated. This is par- 
ticularly true where a very small mass of compost has 
been prepared, and where the preliminary fermenta- 
tion has been permitted to proceed farther than usual. 
Although annoying to the beginner, this condition does 
not worry the experienced grower, for he knows that 
with properly prepared compost his chances for success 
are not impaired, even though the temperature of the 
bed never rises above that of the room. 

Seeding The Bed. When planting the spawn the 
bricks are broken into about a dozen pieces. These 
pieces are inserted to a depth of one or one-half inch, 
at intervals of ten inches, all over the bed. It is a 
mistake to plant spawn deeper than one inch. There 
is danger of the spawn ''damping off" or ''fogging off" 
should there be the slightest excess of moisture in the 
bed. At any rate, even though the bed is not too wet, 
the spawn will develop more rapidly when planted 
shallow than when planted deep. 

A temperature about five degrees above the opti- 
mum (see page 10) during the first three or four weeks 
after planting will accelerate the development of the 
spawn and hasten the maturity of a bed. 

Never Dip Spawn. Spawn, in the condition in 
which it must be handled in the market, is in a dormant 
stage. As soon as it is placed in a suitable temperature 
and moisture it again resumes active growth. In view 



26 

of these facts it will readily be understood how, by 
distributing the bricks over the newly made bed before 
it is ready for planting, the time between planting and 
fruiting may be reduced by several days. In no case 
however should spawn be dipped, or water applied 
direct to bricks. 

"Casing The Beds." 

''Casing" consists in applying a layer of soil from 
one to one and a half inches deep to the surface of the 
mushroom bed. Any good garden soil is very satis- 
factory for this purpose. Sod, which has been piled up 
for several months, is excellent for casing purposes. 
Unless in fine condition, and free from clods and peb- 
bles, the casing soil should be screened. The soil 
should be barely moist when applied. Smooth it down 
but do not pack it. 

Do Not Apply Casing Too Early. A certain amount 
of aeration of the mushroom bed is essential to a normal 
development of the spawn, therefore it is desirable to 
postpone ''casing the beds" with loam until just before 
the first fruit begins to set. As a guide to the inex- 
perienced grower it is recommended that he "case" 
the bed when the growing spawn begins to show in 
mould-like spots on the surface of the compost — usually 
3 or 4 weeks after planting. 

Why Are Beds ''Cased" With Soil? Since the 
soil casing, if applied very soon after planting, may 
cause an insufficient aeration of the beds, why not dis- 
pense with it altogether ? It is essential to a maximum 
production of mushrooms. Some writers maintain that 
spawn will not fruit if beds are not "cased". This is a 
mistake. The casing forms a firmer stratum, a firmer 
support for the mushrooms, a cleaner picking surface, 
and affords a protection to the spawn. It is as a pro- 
tection to the spawn that the casing becomes an essen- 
tial factor in determining the yield of a bed. Without 
it it is almost impossible to pick a mushroom and not 
disturb the adjacent spawn. This disturbance results 
in injury which soon develops into a diseased condition 
affecting the entire spawn growth; hence such beds 
soon cease bearing. The casing also modifies evapora- 
tion and prevents sudden changes of temperature with- 



27 
in the bed, thereby making conditions which directly 
influence the quality of the product and the yield of a 
bed more favorable. 

Watering Mushroom Beds. 

Water is the principal medium through which plant 
food passes from without into the plant. Food can 
enter the plant only in solution, therefore water is 
essential to plant growth. During the early stages of 
growth spawn is very sensitive and is easily injured by 
an excess of moisture. Under favorable conditions and 
with a proper degree of moisture present in the com- 
post when beds are planted, very Httle water, if any, 
need be applied during the first three or four weeks. 
The average bed requires a light spraying once a week. 
One gallon for 100 sq. feet is usually sufficient at this 
time. 

Damping Off. The condition referred to as 
''damping off" of spawn immediately after planting is 
a direct result of too much water. It is analagous to 
the rotting of seeds when planted in a very wet soil. 
The presence of much "free water" closes the pores in 
the soil or bed. This excludes the supply of oxygen 
essential to the growth of the plant and prevents the 
escape of carbon dioxide given off by the growing 
spawn, which, through its poisonous effect, inhibits 
further growth. 

Mulching In-Door Beds. If the bed is exposed to 
a dry atmosphere, as in sheds, stalls, etc., it should be 
covered with a mulch of straw as soon as made up. 
This straw covering should be replaced after planting 
and should remain on the bed until the crop is gathered. 
(Damp sacking is sometimes used for covering the 
beds. This, however, is likely to prevent sufficient 
ventilation and may thus injure the spawn. Hay, also, 
is unsatisfactory for covering the bed). Examme the 
moisture condition of the bed just before plantmg. 
Sometimes the heat resulting from fermentation after 
the bed is made up dries out the interior of the bed. 
After planting it may be necessary to spray the bed 
lightly once a week (except in caves or where the beds 
are covered with straw) until the soil casing is applied, 
but do not water heavily. 



28 

Fruiting Beds Require More Water. When the 
bed has begun fruiting more water is required. The 
mushroom contains more than ninety per cent of water,, 
hence with each picking nine-tenths of the weight 
removed is water. The experienced grower knows the 
effect of spraying on young mushrooms. Water applied 
direct to the young mushrooms — "pin-heads'' — almost 
invariably causes a large number to die. While it is 
impossible to save all, and bring every young mush- 
room to maturity, much harm is done by careless water- 
ing. When watering beds it should be done after 
picking. 

Warm Water Injurious. Numerous writers recom- 
mend spraying the beds with warm water— water about 
80° or 90° F. The temperature of the bed is usually 
between 55° and 65° F. Is it surprising that the spawn 
and mushroom suffers injury under such treatment ? 
A large per cent of the ''pin-heads" and ''buttons'' die. 
Water at a temperature very near that of the bed is 
most satisfactory. 

Moisture In Interior Of Bed. One good spraying 
every week or ten days, as conditions may demand, is 
preferable to just a light spraying daily or every two 
days. When spraying mushroom beds sufficient water 
should be applied to penetrate through the soil casing. 
Instances demanding a spraying sufficient to penetrate 
far into the compost beneath the casing are excep- 
tional; still such extremes sometimes occur. In such 
cases however, where the interior of the bed has be- 
come very dry, it is more satisfactory to punch holes 
in the bed at intervals of about twenty inches and pour 
water into these holes, thereby getting it into the in- 
terior of the bed without saturating the casing. 

Sub-Watering. It will be seen that this process is 
similar to sub-watering. It has been suggested that 
sub-watering may prove more satisfactory in mushroom 
culture than surface spraying, and experiments along 
this line are now under way. It is believed that much 
of the loss resulting from spraying (such as destruction 
of "pin-heads") may be averted by sub- watering. 
Under present methods of mushroom culture, sub- 
watering would of course be limited to floor beds only. 
"Sub-Watering In Greenhouses" in Farmers' Bulletin 



29 

No. 78, contains valuable suggestions on this topic. 

Picking The Crop. 

How To Pick The Mushroom. After a bed has 
commenced bearing the mushrooms should be picked as 
soon as they have attained the stage desired. During 
cool weather it will be necessary to remove the mature 
plants at least every two days, while in a temperature 
above 60° F. they should be picked daily. To pick the 
mushroom, grasp it lightly between the thumb and 
fingers and, without lifting it the least bit give it a 
slight twist to separate it from the spawn. It can then 
be lifted up without destroying the spawn or adjacent 
mushrooms. The experienced grower realizes that 
great care is necessary in picking mushrooms and that 
the yield of a bed may be greatly reduced by careless 
gathering of the crop. 

The Most Profitable Stage. For the general trade 
it is desirable to pick the mushroom just as the veil is 
ready to break, before the gills have lost their beautiful 
pink color. Taken at this stage the flavor will please 
the most exacting tastes. It is at this stage that the 
mushroom has attained its maximum weight and, 
therefore, viewed from the standpoint of the grower, it 
is the most profitable stage at- which the plant can be 
picked. Since the mushroom does not gain in weight 
after the veil is broken, all nourishment taken from the 
spawn after this, enters into the process of spore 
formation. It is economy on the part of the grower 
here again to avoid an unnecessary tax on the food 
supply in the bed by preventing mushrooms from 
developing mature spores. 

When Cutting Is Essential. If there is a large 
cluster of mushrooms, and they are grown together in 
such a manner as to make it impossible to pick out 
the mature plants without destroying the others, it is 
necessary to cut the stems of the mature plants. As 
soon as the entire cluster is removed the stubs must 
be taken out, otherwise decay will set in and injure the 
spawn. With this one exception, cutting is never as 
satisfactory as picking because there is always danger 
of stubs being left on the beds too long, thus inviting - 
disease. 



30 
Preparing The IVlushroom For Market. 

Mushrooms, when picked, should be carefully placed 
into large flat baskets to be taken to the sorting table 
where they are cleaned and sorted, or graded. Some 
growers cut off the base of the stem as soon as the 
mushroom is picked, while others leave this to be done 
in the sorting room. It is becoming more and more the 
custom with short stemmed varieties not to cut the 
stems. The soil and bits of spawn adhering to the base 
of the stem are brushed off and a small piece of oiled- 
tissue paper is placed as a cap over the end of the stem. 
This method has several advantages over that of cutting 
the stems: there is kss waste and less shrinkage. Long 
stems make an unsightly package and do not take well 
on the" market, hence a certain amount of trimming is 
necessary with long stemmed mushrooms. 

A Camel's Hair Brush should be used for brushing 
any adhering loam off the cap. As the mushrooms are 
being sorted they are packed into baskets or boxes for 
the market. ''Broilers" (mature mushrooms) and 
"buttons" (mushrooms picked before the veil begins to 
break) should be packed separately. Mushrooms of 
inferior grade should not be placed in the same package 
with others. 

Packing Mushrooms For Market. 

Various forms of packages are used for marketing 
mushrooms. Baskets are frequently used where the 
product is taken by hotels in lots of 4 to 12 pouads or 
more. Sometimes the product sold through the com- 
mission merchant is handled in baskets, but one-pound 
boxes are preferable. The mushroom is a plant which 
quickly shows handling and bruises. By packing mush- 
rooms in one-pound boxes at the sorting table no further 
handling is necessary. They are distributed in the 
original package direct to the consumer. The ordinary 
lunch box* (a folding box) makes a very satisfactory 
one-pound mushroom box. For shipping to distant 
markets the boxes may be packed into baskets or crates. 
By lining the box with a blue oiled-tissue paper a very 
attractive package is obtained. 

Period Of Production. 

Mushroom beds usually begin bearing between the 

* These boxes usuallv cost $(> to .^7 per one thousand. 



31 

fifth and eighth weeks after planting. Earliness of 
maturity depends on the variety of spawn used, on the 
temperature and moisture condition, and upon the ma- 
terial and the extent of decomposition. The Eureka 
variety matures earlier than varieties of the campestris 
species. Almond, on the other hand, matures later 
than the other varieties. Beds for which the manure 
has not been fermented sufficiently will not fruit as 
early as beds made up of well fermented compost. A 
temperature below the optimum retards growth and 
fruiting, whereas a temperature above the optimum 
hastens fruiting. Forcing the crop at a high tempera- 
ture, however, is at the expense of quality and the 
product is of an inferior grade. Fertilization hastens 
maturity by about ten days. 

The Average Life of a mushroom bed is about 2 1-2 
months. Not infrequently, however, the bed continues 
to yield profitable returns for three or four months. 
Some writers, particularly unscrupulous spawn growers 
exploiting the extraordinary merits of their spawn, 
claim that a mushroom bed bears continually for eight 
or nine months. If such cases are on record they are 
rare exceptions. There is no question but what a mush- 
room bed v/ill continue to produce a few mushrooms 
throughout a period of nine to twelve months, or even 
longer, but the yield is so small and the quality of such 
an inferior grade that, after three or four months, 
under the present culture methods, the bed is no longer 
profitable. 

Early Fruiting. The most profitable beds are those 
which begin bearing early. This alone is an indication 
of a vigorous spawn growth and favorable conditions 
generally. The fruit invariably is larger and of better 
quality than that from late beds where the crop extends 
over a much longer period. The yield from early beds 
is alv/ays greater than from beds slow in maturing. 

After a bed has been fruiting a week or ten days it 
enters the first "resting period," and for almost a week 
it may produce very few mushrooms. It then produces 
another crop of mushrooms, lasting about ten days, 
Vv^hen it again enters a "resting period." This may be 
repeated a half dozen times. 

To Increase The Life Of A Bed. With a better 



32 

understanding of the problem of fertilization it is prob- 
able that in the near future the grower, by the addition 
of a properly balanced commercial fertilizer, v/ill not 
only further increase the yield but will also lengthen 
the bearing period of the mushroom bed. 

Old Beds. 

When a bed has ceased to bear or is no longer 
profitable commercially, examine the spawn to see 
whether it is exhausted or not. If the spawn is of a 
yellowish-brown appearance it is dead and the bed 
should be taken up and removed from the cave, cellar 
or house. If, however, the spawn is white and fresh, 
and has the odor of mushrooms, the bed may be rein- 
vigorated by applying a solution of dibasic potasium 
phosphate. Dissolve one ounce of the salt in each 
gallon of water used for watering the bed. 

Some growers use liquid manure as a stimulant to 
prolong the life of a bed. While this may prove eifect- 
ive to a limited extent in some cases, it is a very waste- 
ful and inconvenient method, and is impracticable in 
many instances. 

The manure in old beds is a very valuable fertilizer 
for garden or lawn but is wholly useless for further 
mushroom growing. When the bed is removed the 
house, cellar, or cave, should be thoroughly cleaned, and, 
if possible, sprayed with a solution of hot lime, or fumi- 
gated with bi-sulphide of carbon (1 pound per 1000 cu.. 
ft.) for 24 hours. Brimstone is used as a fumigant in 
some of the mushroom plants of this country, but it is 
not as effective as bi-sulphide of carbon. 

If conditions are favorable new beds may be in- 
stalled immediately after the old beds have been 
removed. 

Shelf Beds. 

Shelves in the mushroom house are a means by 
which the area of beds for a given floor space may be 
doubled, trebled, or quadrupled (see Fig. 2). From 
this it may readily be inferred that shelf beds are most 
commonly employed where floor space is limited. It is 
indeed recommended that their use be restricted to 
plants of limited floor space, for it is here alone that 
shelf beds prove advantageous. 



33 
More labor is required in making up shelf beds and 
the yield is never quite as heavy as that from floor beds, 
hence the addition of one shelf in your mushroom cellar, 
although it may double your area of beds, will not 
necessarily double the yield of mushrooms. The fruiting 
period is usually shorter than that of floor beds. Vari- 
able conditions of moisture and temperature more 
quickly efl^ect shelf beds than floor beds. 

The condensation of moisture on the ceiling of the 
mushroom house is likely to cause the top bed to become 
very wet, while the beds below this (particularly the 
middle bed, if more than one shelf is used) become dry. 
These conditions must be carefully looked after. It 
may be advisable to stretch a canvas, slanting like a 
roof, over the top bed to prevent it from getting too 
wet. 

In erecting shelves in the mushroom house they 
should be constructed in such a manner that every part 
except the post supporting same may be removed and 
whitewashed after each crop. Cleats, supporting the 
sills or joists, should be nailed on the upright posts. 
The floor and side boards are held in position by the 
bed, hence no nailing is required. Boards 1x8 inches 
are suitable for shelving. Shelf beds should be 8 to 10 
inches deep. 

Mushroom Troubles. 

If your mushroom cellar, house or cave, is 
thoroughly cleaned when beds are removed there is 
little danger from insect depredations. There are a 
few common pests, however, which sometimes become 
injurious. Not infrequently, when conditions are un- 
favorable, other fungi attack the spawn and mushrooms 
and thus cause disease which results in a loss to the 
grower. These several enemies, particularly simple 
remedies for overcoming their harmful effects, are here 
briefly discussed. 

Fogging Off. One of the most common troubles, 
particularly of the beginner, in mushroom growing is 
the loss of a large per cent of the crop after the fruit 
has already set. The mushrooms—from the ' pin -head ' ' 
stage until maturity— turn brown and wither. This 
condition is called "fogging off." The principle cause 
of this trouble is a disturbance or injury of the spawn. 



34 

usually by careless picking. ''Fogging off" is therefore 

rarely noticable until about two weeks after picking 

began. 

Black Spot, as the name indicates, is a disease 
which manifests itself by the appearance of numerous 
black spots on the surface of the cap. It is generally 
due to insufficient ventilation and to the use of warm 
water in spraying the beds. 

Flies. Small manure flies sometimes appear in such 
numbers as to become a nuisance in the mushroom 
house, particularly during the later stages of the life of 
a bed. These flies are not the result of unfavorable 
conditions or carelessness about the mushroom house 
for they inhabit manure wherever it may be. They are 
harmless and become a nuisance only in so far as they 
crawl about over the mushrooms and, unless carefully 
brushed off, may remain in hiding between the gills as 
the miushroom is packed for the market. Burning 
tobacco stems, thus producing a dense smudge in the 
mushroom house, will destroy these flies. The larvse 
of this fly (a small white worm) appearing in the 
manure, may be destroyed by sprinkling the bed with a 
very dilute solution of ammonia. 

Maggots. During v/arm. weather, as soon as the 
temperature exceeds 65° F. , it is almost impossible to 
prevent flies from entering the mushroom house 
(any structure above ground). In underground 
structures — caves, deep cellars, tunnels and mines, — 
which are constantly in absolute darkness, this trouble 
is eliminated. Wherever these flies occur they deposit 
their eggs in the compost of the bed and in the young 
mushrooms. These eggs develop into larvj^ which in- " 
fest the mushroom, and usually by the time it is ready 
to pick the whole interior is completely destroyed. The 
only remedy against larvoe is to exclude or destroy the 
fly. After the egg has once been deposited in -the 
mushroom there is no preventive. Fumigation (1-2 
pound carbon bisulphid for 1000 cu, ft. ) for 24 hours 
will destroy the flies and not injure the mushrooms. 

Sow Bugs Or Wood Lice. These 14-legged crus- 
taceans make their habitat under boards and often fre- 
quent the crevices around the mushroom bed. Since 
they feed on spavvm and mushrooms they are injurious 



35 
to the crop. Remedy: Common insect powder purchas- 
ed at any drug store and scattered over the bed. An- 
other remedy is to sprinkle sHced potatoes with arsenic 
and paris green and place these where the bugs will 
feed on them. This latter remedy is poisonous and 
must be handled carefully. Insect powder is harmless. 

Mites. When the temperature of the mushroom 
house is above 60° F. one or two species of mites fre- 
quently infest the beds. When very abundant their 
injury ):o the spawn and mushrooms becomes readily 
perceptible. Remedy: Spread tobacco stems all over 
the bed. Remove the stems when they begin to decay. 

It should be remembered that the use of commercial 
fertilizers in mushroom culture will greatly reduce the 
danger from such insects that breed in the compact— 
e. g. flies, larvae, etc. 

How To Serve Mushrooms. 

Button mushrooms should never be peeled nor 
shced. Wash and wipe them clean with a wet cloth. 
The stems of button mushrooms are very tender and 
should not be removed. Mature mushrooms, however, 
should be peeled. To peel them, begin at edge drawing 
the peeling towards center of cap. The stems of 
mature mushrooms are usually removed and used in 
meat stews, soups or gravies. Never soak mushrooms 
in salt water. A thorough rinsing will remove all 
insects that may adhere to the gills. Soaking them 
destroys the delicate flavor. 

Mushrooms can be cooked in the same manner as 
oysters; either stewed, fried, broiled or as a soup. They 
are used extensively as a condiment to flavor sauces, 
catsups, meat gravies, game and soups. 

Baked Mushrooms, ¥/ash and peel a pound of 
mushrooms. Put in a baking pan and season with salt, 
pepper, chopped parseley and lemon juice. Cook in 
mioclerate oven about 15 minutes. Arrange in a dish 
and pour over gravy which has been prepared as follows: 
one cap cream, one tablespoonful butter, a little pepper 
and salt, tv/o tablespoons full lemon juice, thickened 
with corn starch. 

Another way is to place the peeled' and sliced 
miushrooms into a pan, add a cup of cold water into 
v/hich a teaspconful of flour has been stirred, salt 



36 

pepper, a little chopped onion and a teaspoonful of 

butter. Put in oven 15 or 20 minutes. Serve while 

hot. 

Mushroonns And Tomatoes On Toast. Use large 
ripe tomatoes and the caps of mature mushrooms. 
Slice the tomatoes and spread on slices of bread, then 
place' the mushroom caps, gills up, on the tomatoes. 
Place a small piece of butter in center of each cap and 
add a little salt and pepper. Put in moderate oven until 
bread is toasted. Serve immediately. This makes a 
fine breakfast dish. 

Mushrooms On Toast. A variation of the above 
formula is to lay the shces of bread into a baking pan, 
covering them with the mushrooms, gills up. Sprinkle 
with salt and pepper and place a piece of butter the 
size of a hazelnut in each cap. Put into moderate 
oven until bread is toasted. Serve at once. 

Stewed Mushrooms. Prepare, as for baking, one 
quart of mushrooms. Have ready in a stew pan: one 
tablespoonful melted butter and half an ounce of chop- 
ped onion. Add the mushrooms and sprinkle with a 
little salt and pepper. Stew gently for about 20 min- 
utes. Then add a cup of cream and stev/ about 10 min- 
utes longer. Thicken v/ith corn starch or cracker 
crumbs and serve while hot. This goes fine on toast. 

Fried Mushrooms. Cut the mushroom into nice 
round slices; have ready a batter prepared with eggs 
and milk, as for batter cakes. Dip slices in this and 
fry a nice brown in hot lard. 

Another good way is to dip them in egg alone; roll 
in cracker crumbs or flour; dip in beaten egg again 
and fry as above. 

As in cooking vegetables, there is a great variety 
of ways in which the mushroom may be prepared for 
the table. There are numerous variations of the 
methods given above. The purpose in giving these 
formulae is to suggest to the reader how readily the 
method might be changed just a little and yet the re- 
sulting dish will be quite different. For additional re- 
ceipts the reader should consult any of the standard 
cook books. 

Preserving Mushrooms. 

Canning Mushrooms. Peel the mushrooms and 



bleach them by dipping into boiling water, containing 
for each gallon three ounces of salt and the juice of two 
lemons. After five minutes remove the mushrooms to 
clean pint jars and cover with a brine prepared by 
adding two ounces of salt and a little lemon juice to 
each gallon of water. Then bring gradually to boiling 
point and boil for 15 minutes. 

Preserving In Butter. Wash and peel the mush- 
rooms and immerse for a few minutes in cold water to 
which a little lemon juice has been added. Wipe them 
dry and use for every pound of mushrooms 1-4 pound 
of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, a httle pepper and the 
juice of one lemon. Melt the butter in a stew pan, add 
the mushrooms and seasonings, and cook slowly until 
nearly dry, shaking to prevent sticking. Then put 
into jars and fill with butter. Heat in boiling water for 
ten minutes, close the top, cool gradually and seal. 

Drying Mushrooms. The process of drying mush- 
rooms is simpler than that of canning. To obtain best 
results, thoroughly clean the mushrooms and then im- 
merse them for a moment in boiling water to which has 
been added a little lemon juice or some vinegar. After 
removing the mushrooms from the water they are 
dried, either by stringing them on threads to be hung 
over the stove or in a sunny place, or by distributing 
them over a wire netting suspended over the stove. 
In drying large quantities it is desirable to dessicate 
them in a drying oven at a temperature near that of 
boiling water. The dried product should be stored in 
air tight boxes or tins. 

Mushroom growers will find the drying process of 
value as a means of utilizing portions of stems and 
mushrooms too far advanced for the demands of the 
best markets. Dried mushrooms may be reduced to a 
powder by passing through an ordinary grinder. This 
powder is in considerable demand for sauces and 
seasoning. 

Mushroom Spawn. 

The. completement to this volume (*Ture Culture 
Spawn," Fifth- Edition) is devoted largely to a discuss- 
ion of mushroom spawn, hence this subject need not 
be entered into here. The era has come in mushroom 



culture when the superiority of Pure Culture Spawn 
has been fully established and no progressive grower of 
today would consider the use of spawn produced by the 
old "chance method." The following table taken from 



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89 
CONTENTS. 

Introduction 5 

Bulletins on Mushroom Culture 5 

Mushroom, The (definition of) 5 

Selecting a Place to Grow Mushrooms 6 

The Residence Cellar for the Home Grower 6 

Cellars, Caves, ¥iines, Etc. ' 6 

Mushroom Culture in Houses, Barns, Stalls, Etc 6 

Ventilators and Windows 7 

Economic Arrangement of Beds, An 8 

Open Air Culture 8 

Causes Of Failure 8 

Time of Planting Out-Door Beds 9 

Temperature and Moisture 10 

Influence on Microscopic Flora of Compost 10 

Optimum Temperature for Different Species 10 

Effect of High and Low Temperature 11 

Relation Between Moisture and Temperature 11 

Atmospheric Moisture in the Mushroom House 12 

Materials for Mushroom Beds 12 

Deep Stall Fermentation 13 

Decayed Leaves 13 

Preparing the Compost 13 

Importance of Careful Fermentation 13 

Loss of Plant Food By Leaching 14 

Commercial Mushroom Growing, In 14 

The First Turning ^ 14 

Second and Third Turning 14 

Condition for Making Into Beds 15 

Using Soil to Check Fermentation 15 

Extreme Temperature Injurious 15 

Water and Fermentation 15 

Fermentation More Rapid In Summer 16 

Growth of Wild Mushrooms on Manure 16 

Preparing a Small Mass of Compost 16 

Fertilization in Mushroom Culture 17 

Principle of Plant Nutrition 17 

Stable Manure an "Unbalanced Food" 18 

Analysis of Stable Manure 18 

Mushroom a Heavy Feeder, The 18 

Mineral Foods Most Important 19 

Present Method of Fertilization 19 

Advantages of Fertilization, The 21 



40 

Mushroom Beds 21 

Two Types of Beds 22 

Flat Bed, The 22 

Ridge Beds 22 

Beds Must Be Packed Fii^m 22 

Moisture Condition, The ^ 22 

Methods of Out-Door Culture 23 

Ridge Beds Preferable 23 

Flat Beds in Coldf rames 24 

Mulching Out-Door Beds 24 

Insect Preventive, An 24 

Selecting a Place for Out-Door Beds 24 

Planting or Spawning 24 

Cold Beds 25 

Seeding the Bed ,^ 25 

Never Dip Spawn 25 

Casing the Beds 26 

Do Not Apply Casing Too Early 26 

Why Are Beds Cased With Soil 27 

Watering Mushroom Beds 27 

Damping Off 27 

Mulching In-Door Beds 27 

Fruiting Beds Require More Water 28 

Warm Water Injurious 28 

Moisture in Literior of Bed 28 

Sub-Watering 28 

Picking The Crop 29 

How to Pick the Mushroom 29 

Most Profitable Stage, The 29 

When Cutting is Essential 29 

Preparing the Mushroom for Market ^ 30 

Packing Mushrooms for Market ' 30 

Period Of Production 30 

Average Life Of a Mushroom Bed 31 

Early Fruiting 31 

To Increase Life Of a Bed 31 

Old Beds 32 

Shelf Beds 32 

Mushroom Troubles 33 

Fogging Off 33 

Black Spot • 34 

Flies • 34 

Maggots • 34 



bow Bugs or Wood Lice q/i 

Mites 35 

How to Serve Mushrooms 35 

Baked Mushrooms 35 

Mushrooms and Tomatoes on Toast 36 

Mushrooms on Toast 36 

Stewed Mushrooms 36 

Fried Mushrooms 3g 

Preserving Mushrooms 36 

Canning Mushrooms 36 

Preserving in Butter 37 

Drying Mushrooms 37 

Mushroom Spawn 37 



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